Vectis Shooting Log

How to Zero a Rifle Scope: A Step-by-Step Guide for UK Shooters

Target Shooting 4 April 2026 9 min read By Ashley Marshall

Step-by-step guide to zeroing a rifle scope in the UK. Covers bore-sighting, the zeroing process, MOA adjustments, common mistakes, and ballistic drop charts.

How to Zero a Rifle Scope: A Step-by-Step Guide for UK Shooters

Quick Answer

Zeroing a rifle scope involves systematically adjusting its elevation and windage turrets until your bullet's point of impact consistently matches your point of aim at a chosen distance. For UK shooters, this typically means firing groups of shots at a target, measuring their deviation, and then turning the scope's turrets to move the reticle, correcting the impact to the desired zeroing distance, commonly 100 metres for stalking.

# How to Zero a Rifle Scope: A Step-by-Step Guide for UK Shooters ## Quick Answer Zeroing your rifle scope means adjusting the crosshairs so that your point of aim matches your point of impact at a specific distance. Most UK shooters zero at **100 metres** for deer stalking and target shooting, or **50-100 yards** for pest control. The process involves firing groups of shots, measuring the offset from your aiming point, and adjusting the scope's elevation and windage turrets to correct the difference. A properly zeroed rifle should place its shots within **1 MOA (minute of angle)** of the aiming point, roughly 29mm at 100 metres. ## Why Does Zeroing Matter So Much? A scope that isn't zeroed to your specific rifle and ammunition is about as useful as a car sat-nav pointing you in the wrong direction. Your rifle, scope, mounts, and ammunition form a unique system. Even if you buy a rifle identical to your mate's, with the same scope, using the same ammunition, the zero will be different. Every time you change ammunition, replace scope mounts, remove and refit the scope, or adjust the stock, your zero can shift. Professional deer stalkers and competitive target shooters verify their zero before every significant outing. It takes 10 minutes and three to five rounds. The cost of not doing it could be a wounded deer or a missed target. ## What Do You Need to Zero a Rifle? Before heading to the range, make sure you have everything ready. There's nothing worse than getting set up and realising you've forgotten something. ### Essential Kit - **Your rifle and scope** (fully assembled and torqued to spec) - **The exact ammunition you'll be using** (same brand, weight, and lot number if possible) - **A solid benchrest or sandbags** - you need to remove as much human error as possible - **A zeroing target** - purpose-made targets with grid squares are best, but any target with a clear aiming point works - **A rangefinder or measured distance** - most UK ranges have fixed distances marked - **Screwdriver or turret coin** - for adjusting scope turrets (many modern scopes have finger-adjustable turrets) - **Ear protection and eye protection** - mandatory on any range - **Cleaning kit** - a fouled barrel can affect accuracy - **Pen and notebook** - to record your adjustments - **Bore sighter** (optional) - gets you on paper faster with a new scope ### Choosing Your Zero Distance The distance you zero at depends on what you're shooting. | Purpose | Recommended Zero | Why | |---|---|---| | **Deer stalking (all species)** | 100 metres | Standard UK stalking range, good compromise for 50-200m shots | | **Target shooting (fullbore)** | 100 metres (or competition distance) | NRA/fullbore competitions typically start at 100m | | **Pest control (foxes, rabbits)** | 100 yards | Common engagement range for foxing; close enough for precision | | **Rimfire (.22 LR)** | 50 metres | Rimfire trajectories drop sharply beyond 50m | | **Long-range target** | 100 metres (then use turret adjustments) | Zero at a known distance, dial for further targets | Most UK shooters zero at **100 metres** and learn their bullet's trajectory at other distances. This is called your ballistic drop table, and it tells you how many clicks of elevation to dial (or how much holdover to use) at 150, 200, 250 metres and beyond. ## How Do You Bore-Sight a New Scope? If you've just mounted a new scope, bore-sighting gets you roughly on target before you fire a shot. This saves ammunition and frustration. ### Method 1: Laser Bore Sighter Insert a laser bore sighter into the chamber or muzzle. The laser projects a dot onto your target. Adjust your scope's crosshairs to align with the laser dot. This gets you within a few inches at 25 metres, close enough to hit paper at 100 metres. ### Method 2: Visual Bore Sighting (bolt-action rifles only) This free method works with any bolt-action rifle: 1. Remove the bolt 2. Rest the rifle firmly on sandbags 3. Look through the barrel from the breech end 4. Centre a target at 25-50 metres in the bore 5. Without moving the rifle, look through the scope 6. Adjust the scope turrets until the crosshairs point at the same target the bore is centred on 7. Replace the bolt This old-school technique is surprisingly accurate. You'll typically be within 3-4 inches at 25 metres, which puts you on paper at 100 metres. ## What Is the Step-by-Step Process for Zeroing? Here's the actual zeroing procedure, assuming you're bore-sighted and on paper at your chosen distance. ### Step 1: Fire a Three-Shot Group From a stable benchrest position, fire three carefully aimed shots at the centre of your target. Take your time between shots. Let the barrel cool slightly between rounds. Don't rush. You're testing the rifle's accuracy, not your speed. ### Step 2: Measure the Group Walk down or use a spotting scope to examine where your three shots landed. You're looking at two things: 1. **Group size** - How close together are the three holes? This tells you how accurate your rifle/ammunition combination is. Three holes touching at 100 metres is exceptional. A group within 25mm (1 inch) is very good. Within 50mm (2 inches) is adequate for stalking. 2. **Group centre** - Where is the middle of the group relative to your aiming point? This tells you how much adjustment you need. ### Step 3: Calculate the Adjustment Most rifle scopes adjust in **1/4 MOA clicks** (some European scopes use 1cm at 100m clicks). Here's how to calculate the adjustment: **For 1/4 MOA scopes at 100 metres:** - 1 MOA = approximately 29mm at 100 metres - 1 click (1/4 MOA) = approximately 7.25mm at 100 metres - If your group is 50mm right of centre, you need approximately **7 clicks left** - If your group is 30mm high, you need approximately **4 clicks down** **For metric scopes (1cm/100m clicks):** - 1 click = 10mm at 100 metres - If your group is 50mm right, you need **5 clicks left** - If your group is 30mm high, you need **3 clicks down** ### Step 4: Make the Adjustments The turrets on top and the side of your scope control elevation (up/down) and windage (left/right). **Critical rule:** The adjustment moves the **point of impact**, not the crosshair position. If you need to move your shots left, you turn the windage turret in the direction marked "L" or the direction that moves the internal mechanism left. Most scopes have arrows and markings to guide you. Count your clicks carefully. Say them out loud as you turn: "One, two, three, four, five." It's easy to lose count. ### Step 5: Fire Another Three-Shot Group Shoot another three rounds at a fresh aiming point (or a clean area of the target). Check where they land. If they're now centred on your aiming point, your zero is confirmed. ### Step 6: Confirm with a Final Group Fire one more three-shot group to confirm your zero is consistent. If all three shots land within your acceptable accuracy standard centred on the aiming point, you're done. **Total rounds fired:** Typically 9-15 rounds to achieve a solid zero from bore-sight. An established zero check requires only 3-5 rounds. ## How Often Should You Check Your Zero? Your zero can shift for reasons that aren't always obvious. Build a zero check into your routine. ### Check Your Zero When: - **Before every stalking outing** - Three rounds at 100 metres takes five minutes and costs under £3 in ammunition. There is no excuse for skipping this. - **After transporting your rifle** - Vibration, bumps, and temperature changes can shift zero. Even driving to the range can cause minor shifts. - **When changing ammunition** - Different loads, bullet weights, or even different production lots of the same ammunition can have different points of impact. - **After any scope adjustment** - If you dialled elevation for a long shot and then returned to your base zero, verify it. - **Seasonally** - Temperature significantly affects ammunition velocity. Your summer zero may shoot 10-15mm differently in winter. - **After removing and refitting the scope** - Even with return-to-zero mounts, verify your zero after any scope movement. ### How Much Zero Shift Is Acceptable? For deer stalking, the [Best Practice Guides](https://www.bestpracticeguides.org.uk/) recommend that your rifle should consistently group within the kill zone of the species you're stalking. For roe deer, the heart/lung area is roughly 100-120mm in diameter. For red deer, it's about 200mm. A practical standard for a stalking rifle is a **consistent 1-1.5 MOA group** (29-44mm at 100 metres) centred on your point of aim. If your groups are larger than this, investigate the cause before going stalking. ## What Causes Zero to Shift? Understanding why zero shifts helps you prevent it. ### Mechanical Causes - **Loose scope mounts** - The most common cause. Check torque settings regularly. Use a torque wrench set to the manufacturer's specification (typically 15-25 inch-pounds for ring screws). - **Loose action screws** - The screws holding the action into the stock can work loose over time, especially on wooden stocks that expand and contract with moisture. - **Worn scope turrets** - Older or cheaper scopes can develop slop in the turret mechanism, meaning your adjustments don't hold reliably. - **Stock contact** - If the barrel touches the stock at any point (other than at the chamber/recoil lug), warping of the stock due to moisture changes can press on the barrel and shift zero. ### Environmental Causes - **Temperature** - Cold ammunition produces lower velocities, shifting impact down at longer ranges. A 10°C temperature drop can shift impact by 10-20mm at 200 metres. - **Altitude** - Shooting at different elevations affects air density and bullet trajectory. Less relevant in the UK (our ranges don't vary much in altitude). - **Humidity** - Minor effect, but high humidity slightly reduces air density, which can marginally change trajectory at longer ranges. ### Ammunition Causes - **Different lot numbers** - Even the same brand and load can vary slightly between production batches. - **Bullet weight changes** - Switching from 150-grain to 130-grain in .308, for example, will significantly change your point of impact. - **Handloads vs factory** - If you reload your own ammunition, variations in powder charge, seating depth, and primer can all affect zero. ## What Are Common Zeroing Mistakes UK Shooters Make? ### Shooting Off an Unstable Rest If your rest wobbles, your groups spread. This makes it impossible to tell whether your rifle or your rest is the problem. Use proper sandbags or a quality benchrest. Avoid those cheap folding rests that flex under recoil. ### Not Letting the Barrel Cool A hot barrel shoots to a different point of impact than a cold barrel. For zeroing, wait 60-90 seconds between shots. Your hunting shot will be from a cold or cool barrel, so your zero should reflect cold-barrel conditions. ### Chasing Individual Shots Never adjust your scope based on a single shot. Always use a three-shot minimum group. One flier doesn't mean your zero is off. It means you pulled that shot. ### Zeroing with Different Ammunition Than You Hunt With If you zero with Federal 150-grain soft-point but hunt with Hornady 143-grain ELD-X, your zero will be different. Zero with exactly what you intend to use in the field. ### Forgetting to Record Your Settings Write down your zero settings (how many clicks from optical centre for elevation and windage) and keep them in your rifle case or [shooting log](https://www.vectisshootinglog.com). If your scope gets knocked or your turrets accidentally turn, you can return to your known zero without wasting ammunition. ## How Do You Set Up a Ballistic Drop Chart? Once your rifle is zeroed at 100 metres, you need to know where it shoots at other distances. This is your ballistic drop chart, and it's essential for stalking or long-range target shooting. ### Building Your Drop Chart The most accurate method is to **shoot at each distance** and record the actual drop. Set up targets at 100m, 150m, 200m, 250m, and 300m. Fire three-shot groups at each distance (aimed at the centre with your 100m zero) and measure the drop. Alternatively, use a ballistic calculator app like Strelok or Applied Ballistics. Input your bullet type, weight, muzzle velocity, ballistic coefficient, zero distance, and environmental conditions. The app calculates predicted drop at each distance. **Record your drop chart and tape it to your rifle stock or save it in your shooting log.** When you're on the hill and a stag appears at 200 metres, you don't want to be guessing. ### Example Drop Chart (.308 Win, 150gr, zeroed 100m) | Distance | Drop (from 100m zero) | Clicks (1/4 MOA) | |---|---|---| | 50m | +15mm (high) | n/a | | 100m | 0 (zero) | 0 | | 150m | -45mm | 6 clicks up | | 200m | -130mm | 9 clicks up | | 250m | -260mm | 14 clicks up | | 300m | -440mm | 20 clicks up | These are approximate figures. Your specific rifle, ammunition, and conditions will produce different numbers. Always confirm with actual shooting. ## Key Takeaways - Zero your rifle at 100 metres for most UK shooting applications - Always use the exact ammunition you'll be shooting in the field - Fire three-shot groups and adjust based on the group centre, never single shots - Check your zero before every stalking outing and after transporting your rifle - Loose scope mounts are the most common cause of zero shift - Build a ballistic drop chart for your specific rifle and ammunition combination - Record everything in your [shooting log](https://www.vectisshootinglog.com) for reference and FAC renewal evidence ## Frequently Asked Questions ### What distance should I zero my rifle at in the UK? Most UK shooters zero at 100 metres, which is the standard for deer stalking and fullbore target shooting. For rimfire rifles (.22 LR), 50 metres is more appropriate due to the bullet's steep trajectory. For pest control with centrefire rifles, 100 yards works well for most scenarios. ### How many shots does it take to zero a rifle? From a bore-sighted starting point, you'll typically need 9-15 rounds to achieve a confirmed zero. An experienced shooter with a bore sighter can sometimes get there in 6 rounds. A routine zero check on an already-zeroed rifle requires just 3-5 rounds. ### Can I zero my rifle at 25 metres and be accurate at 100? You can use 25 metres to get roughly on paper, but it's not a substitute for zeroing at your intended distance. Bullet trajectory isn't linear, and small errors at 25 metres compound significantly at longer ranges. Always confirm your final zero at the actual distance you intend to shoot. ### Should I zero with a cold or warm barrel? Always zero from a cold barrel for the first shot, then allow the barrel to cool between shots. Your hunting or stalking shot will almost always be from a cold barrel, so your zero should reflect cold-barrel conditions. Hot barrels typically shift point of impact upward. ### What does MOA mean on my scope turrets? MOA stands for Minute of Angle, an angular measurement used for scope adjustments. One MOA equals approximately 29mm at 100 metres (or 1.047 inches at 100 yards). Most rifle scopes adjust in 1/4 MOA increments, meaning each click moves the point of impact roughly 7.25mm at 100 metres. ### How do I know if my scope is faulty? Signs of a faulty scope include groups that wander despite consistent technique, turrets that don't click cleanly, adjustments that don't produce the expected shift, or a reticle that appears to move or tilt. Test by making a deliberate 20-click adjustment, shooting a group, then returning 20 clicks. If the group doesn't return to the original position, the scope's internal mechanism may be damaged. ### Why does my zero change in cold weather? Temperature affects ammunition velocity. Colder propellant burns slower, producing lower muzzle velocities and slightly different barrel harmonics. A 20°C temperature drop can reduce velocity by 30-50 fps, which translates to a noticeable downward shift at 200+ metres. Some shooters maintain separate winter and summer zero data. ### Can I zero my rifle without a benchrest? You can, but it's harder and takes more ammunition. Use a rucksack, rolled jacket, or bipod to create the most stable position you can. The goal is to eliminate as much human wobble as possible so you're testing the rifle's accuracy, not yours. A proper benchrest or heavy sandbags are always preferable. ### Do I need to re-zero after fitting a moderator? Yes. Adding or removing a sound moderator changes the barrel harmonics and adds weight to the muzzle. This almost always shifts the point of impact, typically by 25-50mm at 100 metres. Always re-zero after fitting or removing a moderator, and don't swap moderators between rifles without checking. ### How accurate should a stalking rifle be at 100 metres? The [Best Practice Guides](https://www.bestpracticeguides.org.uk/) for deer stalking recommend your rifle should consistently group within the vital zone of the species you're stalking. Practically, a stalking rifle should produce groups of 1-1.5 MOA (29-44mm at 100 metres) or better. If your rifle can't achieve this, investigate the cause before taking it into the field.

Frequently Asked Questions

What distance should I zero my rifle at in the UK?

Most UK shooters zero at 100 metres, which is the standard for deer stalking and fullbore target shooting. For rimfire rifles (.22 LR), 50 metres is more appropriate due to the bullet's steep trajectory. For pest control with centrefire rifles, 100 yards works well for most scenarios.

How many shots does it take to zero a rifle?

From a bore-sighted starting point, you'll typically need 9-15 rounds to achieve a confirmed zero. An experienced shooter with a bore sighter can sometimes get there in 6 rounds. A routine zero check on an already-zeroed rifle requires just 3-5 rounds.

Can I zero my rifle at 25 metres and be accurate at 100?

You can use 25 metres to get roughly on paper, but it's not a substitute for zeroing at your intended distance. Bullet trajectory isn't linear, and small errors at 25 metres compound significantly at longer ranges. Always confirm your final zero at the actual distance you intend to shoot.

Should I zero with a cold or warm barrel?

Always zero from a cold barrel for the first shot, then allow the barrel to cool between shots. Your hunting or stalking shot will almost always be from a cold barrel, so your zero should reflect cold-barrel conditions. Hot barrels typically shift point of impact upward.

What does MOA mean on my scope turrets?

MOA stands for Minute of Angle, an angular measurement used for scope adjustments. One MOA equals approximately 29mm at 100 metres. Most rifle scopes adjust in 1/4 MOA increments, meaning each click moves the point of impact roughly 7.25mm at 100 metres.

How do I know if my scope is faulty?

Signs of a faulty scope include groups that wander despite consistent technique, turrets that don't click cleanly, adjustments that don't produce the expected shift, or a reticle that appears to move or tilt. Test by making a deliberate 20-click adjustment, shooting a group, then returning 20 clicks to see if it returns to the original position.

Why does my zero change in cold weather?

Temperature affects ammunition velocity. Colder propellant burns slower, producing lower muzzle velocities and slightly different barrel harmonics. A 20 degree C temperature drop can reduce velocity by 30-50 fps, which translates to a noticeable downward shift at 200+ metres.

Can I zero my rifle without a benchrest?

You can, but it's harder and takes more ammunition. Use a rucksack, rolled jacket, or bipod to create the most stable position you can. The goal is to eliminate as much human wobble as possible so you're testing the rifle's accuracy, not yours.

Do I need to re-zero after fitting a moderator?

Yes. Adding or removing a sound moderator changes the barrel harmonics and adds weight to the muzzle. This almost always shifts the point of impact, typically by 25-50mm at 100 metres. Always re-zero after fitting or removing a moderator.

How accurate should a stalking rifle be at 100 metres?

The Best Practice Guides for deer stalking recommend your rifle should consistently group within the vital zone of the species you're stalking. Practically, a stalking rifle should produce groups of 1-1.5 MOA (29-44mm at 100 metres) or better.

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